Fustat: the First and Oldest Islamic Capital
Translated by: Basmala Sameeh
Reviewed by: Nouran Salah
About two miles from Cairo, on the Nile bank at its northeastern end, specifically near the Babylon Fort, lies the first and oldest Islamic capital, the city of Fustat. When the Muslim Arabs, led by Amr ibn al-Aas, arrived in Egypt, they found two large cities: Alexandria on the shore of the Mediterranean Sea, which is considered the first capital due to its closeness to the Eastern Roman Empire, which had sovereignty at that time, and Babylon the Second, located at the head of the delta, overlooking both the northern and southern regions and the banks of the Nile, facilitating its connection to all parts of Egypt. Additionally, Babylon the Second was situated between the inexhaustible water resource of the Nile to the west and the Mokattam Mountain to the east, which served as a natural border for protection.
After Amr ibn al-As, the Arab Muslim conqueror, took control of the Babylon Fortress, as early Arab historians called it, he left a garrison there and headed towards Alexandria, the capital of the country. Alexandria was conquered after a six-month siege. After that, Amr had to establish a capital for himself and his conquering soldiers. Initially, the great conqueror did not want to trouble himself with building, so he chose Alexandria since its houses were ready, saying, “These are dwellings that have already been provided for us.” However, Caliph Umar ibn al-Khattab rejected the idea of making Alexandria the capital of the country—which had been the capital of Egypt throughout the Ptolemaic and Roman periods. Amr ibn al-As then chose a location devoid of buildings and architecture, except for the Roman fortress, to establish the new capital. He named it “Fustat,” to be the country’s base and the seat of governance in the year 21 AH, 641 AD.
The development of Fustat began with the construction of the Amr ibn al-As Mosque, later known as “the Ancient Mosque.” The Arab tribes that composed his army settled around the mosque, each group occupying a designated area, with a total population of 15,500, equivalent to the number of soldiers involved in the conquest. The urban expansion of the city continued, resulting in numerous neighborhoods, alleys, and pathways. The word “Fustat” means camp, and the city was named as such because, when Amr went to conquer Alexandria, he found a dove had laid eggs on the edge of his tent. He left the tent standing until he returned and established the first capital of Islamic Egypt on that spot.
Historians differ on who founded Fustat. Al-Baladhuri in “Futuh al-Buldan” mentions it was Al-Zubayr ibn al-Awwam, who built a house in the middle of the city that included the ladder he used to conquer the Babylon Fortress. Others say it was established by a consultative council formed by Amr ibn al-As, including Muawiya ibn Khudayj al-Tijibi, Sharik ibn Sumur al-Ghatafani, Amr ibn Qahzam al-Khulani, and Gabriel ibn Nashiara al-Maafari, as mentioned by historian Ibn Duqmaq in his book “Al-Intisar Li-Wasat Aqad al-Amsar.”
Al-Maqrizi described the land of Fustat before the city’s construction, saying: “Know that the location of Fustat, now called the city of Misr, was open land and fields between the Nile and the eastern mountain known as the Muqattam Mountain, with no buildings except a fortress, parts of which are known today as the Wax Palace and the Hanging Church.”
Fustat’s urban growth extended three miles along the Nile, comparable to Baghdad, the world’s capital at that time, as noted by geographer Ibn Hawqal in “Surat al-Ard.” It consisted of 12 districts or neighborhoods, housing various Arab tribes from the Nile in the west to Ain al-Sira in the east, and from Jabal Yashkur in the north to the east, and Jabal al-Rasad known as Antara’s Stable. These districts included: Ahl al-Raya, Muhra, Tajib, Lakhm, Al-Lafif, Ahl al-Zahir, Wa’lan, the Persians, Khawlan, Ma’afir, the Byzantines and Jews, and the Copts. Fustat’s construction continued until it reached its peak in the 10th century AD and the 4th century AH. It remained significant even after losing its capital status to Al-Askar city built by the Abbasids in 133 AH, Al-Qata’i city built by Ibn Tulun in 256 AH, or Cairo in 358 AH.
Fustat included police stations to maintain security and order and was illuminated with lanterns during the reign of Fatimid Caliph al-Aziz Billah and his son al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah. Three centuries earlier, during the rule of governor Abd al-Aziz ibn Marwan (65-85 AH), Fustat had fire brigades to help combat fires.
The digging of an old canal, known as the Trajan Canal, which connected the Nile to the Red Sea, helped boost trade in Fustat. When the Islamic conquest of Egypt occurred, the canal had been filled in. Amr ibn al-As re-dug it, and it was named “Khalij Amir al-Mu’minin” (Canal of the Commander of the Faithful), allowing ships loaded with food and grain to sail to Hejaz. Due to its location on the Nile, Fustat later became a major center for foreign maritime trade and a port for goods coming from “China, India, Yemen, and Europe,” in addition to being the main center for water transport. This Egyptian canal continued to function until 1897/1898 AD, when the section within Cairo was filled in and replaced by Al-Khalij Al-Masri Street, which was renamed Port Said Street in 1957.
Ibn Sa’id al-Maghribi described this thriving commercial port during his journey to Egypt in the Ayyubid era, saying: “As for what Fustat receives from the Alexandrian (the Mediterranean) and Hejazi (the Red Sea) sea trade, it surpasses description. Fustat is the center of this activity, not Cairo, and goods are dispatched from there to Cairo and other countries.”
Fustat remained a prosperous city until it faced the Crusader threat. When Amalric, King of Jerusalem and the Crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem, marched to invade Egypt and stood at Fustat in the year 565 AH, the Fatimid vizier Shawar, serving under Caliph Al-Adid Billah, feared the city’s fall; therefore, He ordered the city to be set on fire. Al-Maqrizi describes the burning incident, stating, “Shawar sent twenty thousand bottles of naphtha and ten thousand fire torches, which were dispersed throughout the city. The flames and smoke rose to the sky, creating a terrifying scene, and the fire continued to consume the dwellings of Egypt for fifty-four days.” Fustat remained the capital of Egypt for 113 years.
Today, the city of Fustat is divided into two parts: the eastern part, adjacent to the Muqattam Mountain, where the fire occurred and which contains no buildings except for the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As and the Fortress of Babylon. Archaeologists have excavated this area to uncover the ruins of the burned city. The western part, adjacent to the Nile, is known today as Old Cairo or Misr al-Atiqa.
Currently, this area is known as “Old Cairo” (Misr al-Qadima), one of the most historic districts in Greater Cairo. It includes many archaeological sites such as the Ben Ezra Synagogue, the Churches of Old Cairo, the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As, the excavations of the ruins of Fustat, the Nilometer on Rhoda Island, the Manasterly Palace, and the Muhammad Ali Palace in Manial.
English Language Coordinator: Asmaa Ahmed
