El Beheira: The Land of Abundance

Translated by: Sarah Hesham 

Reviewed by: Nouran Salah 

Located on an area over 9121.68 square kilometers, west of the Nile Delta in northern Egypt, El Beheira Governorate is bordered to the north by the Mediterranean Sea, to the south by Giza Governorate, to the east by the Nile River (Rashid Branch), separating it from three neighboring governorates (Monufia, Gharbia, and Kafr El Sheikh), and to the west by Alexandria and Matrouh Governorates.

El Beheira is one of the oldest civilized settlements in the world and among the first cities to mint coins. It is one of Egypt’s most ancient governorates, with a history dating back to 4400 BC when it was called the province of "Bedit," the capital of the Northern Kingdom which consisted of twenty provinces.

The name "El Beheira" is derived from "Bahra," meaning a vast, low-lying area of land, referring to the lakes and surrounding lands that were flooded during the inundation of the Nile in the northern part of the region.

El Beheira Governorate is the largest in Egypt in terms of agricultural land area and is known for its diverse agricultural production, including cotton, rice, wheat, corn, and potatoes. It is the leading governorate in the production of fruit, vegetable, citrus, potato, tomato, artichoke, watermelon, bean, and pepper. It also ranks second in the number of Islamic monuments.

In 1960, Local Administration Law No. 124, issued by President Gamal Abdel Nasser, officially established El Beheira Governorate. It includes fifteen centers and cities as follows:

Center and City of Damanhur

Damanhur, the capital of the governorate, dates back to ancient Egyptian history and was known by the Romans as "Hermopolis Parva" and in the Middle Ages as "Hos" (Demi-in-Hor) from which its current name is derived.

Damanhour is renowned for its carpet industry, housing the Damanhour Carpet Factory affiliated with the Ministry of Endowments. This factory is responsible for carpeting all mosques in the country according to protocols with the Ministry of Endowments and the governorates. The Damanhour Military Secondary School building is an architectural marvel built during the reign of King Fuad. The Ambulance Building was also constructed during King Fuad's era, along with the Damanhour Municipal Council, and is leased to the ambulance service for ten Egyptian piasters annually, with the contract preserved in the city's municipal archives. This building was funded by donations and is located in the city center, alongside the municipal council and the King Fuad Cinema (now the Opera Theater), which cost 300,000 Egyptian pounds. Other notable establishments in Damanhour include the Damanhour Teaching Hospital, the Toba Mosque (the second mosque in Egypt after the Fustat Mosque in Cairo), Damanhour University, and Damanhour Stadium.

The center comprises approximately 7 rural local units, 75 villages, and 824 hamlets.

Center and City of Rashid 

Rashid is a city that has witnessed all historical phases in Egypt. Its name dates back to the ancient Egyptian "Rakhit," which became "Rashit" in the Coptic era and it is believed to have been named after Harun al-Rashid during the Abbasid Caliphate. Rashid means "white rose" in Arabic and it contains many Islamic monuments from the Ottoman period.

During the era of Muhammad Ali Pasha, Rashid was the center of veterinary medicine in Egypt. Faced with a rinderpest outbreak that killed 12,000 oxen used in rice and grain mills, Muhammad Ali did not seek foreign veterinarians but instead established a veterinary school in Rashid in 1827.

The center includes around 3 rural local units, 15 villages, and 86 hamlets.

Center and City of Kafr El Dawwar

Kafr El Dawwar is one of the most important industrial cities in the northern Delta of Egypt, second only to Mahalla in the textile industry due to several textile companies located there.

In 1882, it was the site of a battle between the British and the Egyptian army led by Ahmed Orabi.

The center comprises approximately 9 rural local units, 40 villages, and 79 hamlets.

Center and City of Abu El Matamir

This city existed before the Islamic conquest of Egypt and was used by the Romans for grain storage. Its name is derived from "Matamira" (plural of "Matmara"), where grain was stored, highlighting the city's role as the grain storage of El Beheira. The center includes around 6 rural local units, 48 villages, and 651 hamlets.

Center and City of Abu Hummus

Abu Hummus was established on the ruins of an ancient city called Shibriyas. During the Arab era, it was known as Shabrabar. In a general directory from 1803 AD (1224 AH), its name was mentioned, and in 1807 AD (1228 AH), it was officially registered as Abu Hummus, named after the estate built on its ruins. This led to the disappearance of the name Shabrabar from the list of Egyptian villages, replaced by Abu Hummus. When the railway was built between Egypt and Alexandria, one of its stations was located on the property of a member of the Abu Hummus family, and the station was named after the property owner. Consequently, the estate next to the station was named Abu Hummus after the new station.

In 1838 AD (1259 AH), it appeared in the files of the Buhaira Directorate as the Abu Hummus Estate, and it continued to be known by this name in the financial section's records. However, in the administrative section, it retained the name Abu Hummus without the mention of "Estate."

In 1871, the Abu Hummus Center was established, with Damanhour serving as its headquarters due to its affiliation with the Abu Hummus Center at that time and the lack of suitable places in Abu Hummus for government offices and staff residences.

Names of some areas in the Abu Hummus Center appear in historical references such as the "Laws of the Divans" by Ayyubid Minister Al-As'ad Ibn Mamaty, one of the most important documents on agriculture and administrative systems in Egypt during the Ayyubid state, and the "Al-Tuhfa Al-Saniya" book by Sharaf Al-Din Yahya Ibn Al-Ji'aan, which lists the names of Egyptian villages.

The center comprises approximately 7 rural local units, 31 main villages, and 849 hamlets.

Center and City of Idku

Located on the Mediterranean coast, Idku is known for its textile industry. The center includes around 3 rural local units, 3 villages, and 74 hamlets.

Dalangat Center and City

Dalangat is home to several archaeological areas dating back to 2000 BC, such as Kom El-Malek Farin, located in the village of Kom Farin in Dalangat. It is considered one of the most significant and largest archaeological mounds, dating back to the 18th dynasty during the era of Ramses II. It includes a fortress as part of the fortifications established by King Ramses II in the western delta to defend Egypt's western borders from raids coming from the west. Kom Qurtas, located north of the city, is another notable site. Commander Amr ibn al-As passed through Dalangat in 20 AH - 839 AD during the Islamic conquest of Egypt under Caliph Omar ibn al-Khattab. Dalangat was chosen as a center and city in the administrative division in 1899 AD. It comprises about 5 rural local units, 45 villages, and 771 hamlets.

Rahmaniya Center and City

Rahmaniya is not mentioned in historical records until after the seventh century AH, where it was known as Mahallat Abdul Rahman. After the French campaign reached west of Alexandria on July 2, 1798, they advanced on the city and occupied it on the same day. Napoleon then advanced on Cairo via Damanhur, managing to capture Rashid on July 6 and reaching Rahmaniya, which was then a village on the Nile. During this time, the Mamluks were preparing an army to face the French forces led by Murad Bey.

The tomb of the Arab scholar Ali Ibn al-Nafis, who discovered the pulmonary circulation, is one of the most famous landmarks. The center includes 3 rural local units, 26 villages, and 95 hamlets.

Mahmoudiya Center and City

Mahmoudiya, despite its modernity, has a historical significance as it was one of the most important commercial river ports. It served as a crossing point for boats carrying goods from Upper Egypt and the Delta to Alexandria through the lock of the Mahmoudiya Canal, which was dug by Muhammad Ali in the early 19th century. Boats from Alexandria would pass through it to the Nile of Cairo, carrying imported goods for Egypt. The center includes about 6 rural local units, 20 villages, and 282 hamlets.

Itay El-Baroud Center and City

During the Ottoman era, this area was used as a large gunpowder store, hence it was named Tey El-Baroud, which later changed to Itay El-Baroud. The center comprises about 8 rural local units, 64 villages, and 391 hamlets.

Badr Center and City

Previously known as the Liberation Directorate, it was established by the late Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser in 1962. The city was built on an agricultural basis, intended to be a significant agricultural market in the region, taking produce from the newly established surrounding villages. The center includes about 6 rural local units, 33 villages, and 60 hamlets.

Hosh Isa Center and City

Dalangat Center

Shubrakhit Center and City

Shubrakhit is located on the Nile (Rashid branch) and is bordered to the north by Rahmaniya Center, to the south by Itay El-Baroud Center, to the east by the Nile branch, and to the west by Damanhur Center. After the French campaign reached west of Alexandria on July 2, 1798, they advanced on the city and occupied it, Napoleon then advanced on Cairo via Damanhur, capturing Rashid on July 6. During this period, the Mamluks were preparing an army to face the French forces led by Murad Bey. The two armies met near Shubrakhit on July 13, 1798.

However, the Mamluks were defeated and forced to retreat. Murad Bey returned to Cairo, where the French and Mamluk armies clashed again in the Battle of Imbaba or the Battle of the Pyramids, and Murad Bey's army was decisively defeated on July 21, 1799. The center includes about 5 rural local units, 47 villages, and 190 hamlets.

Kom Hamada Center and City

Previously known as Menyet Asami, the name was changed in the early Ottoman era in 1526 AD to Kom Hamada, its current name. It was previously known as Nageela Center, but due to the unsuitability of that village for the center's headquarters and its distance from the railway, the center's headquarters was moved to Kom Hamada in 1902, as it had a railway station and was centrally located among the center's villages. The center is bordered to the west by the Liberation Directorate, to the north by Itay El-Baroud Center, to the south by Monufia Governorate, and to the east by the Nile (Rashid branch). The center includes about 9 rural local units, 55 villages, and 476 hamlets.

Wadi El-Natrun Center and City

In Coptic, Wadi El-Natrun was known as (Shihit), meaning "the balance of the heart," and also as (Habib), meaning "the hidden of the many." In Greek, it was known as (Sketis), meaning "the monks," and in Ptolemaic times, it was known as (Sekhet Hemem), meaning "the valley of salt." Wadi El-Natrun is named after the natron salt lakes scattered within it. It is a desert depression behind the Nile Delta, extending to the Liberation Directorate. The valley has a rich history, both ancient and modern, which we will mention later. Wadi El-Natrun was significant during the Pharaonic era as natron salt was extracted for mummification, preserving bodies for long periods. A black granite bust, stones from the 17th dynasty, a granite gate, and other artifacts have been discovered there.

Wadi El-Natrun's significance extended from the Pharaonic era into Christianity due to the Holy Family's passage through it while fleeing King Herod. It became the site of the first monastic community in the 4th century AD, established by Saint Macarius the Great, who founded the Monastery of Saint Macarius. This was followed by three other monasteries: the Monastery of Saint Pishoy, the Paromeos Monastery, and the Syrian Monastery. At its peak, Wadi El-Natrun had 700 monasteries, now reduced to four, making the valley a crucial holy site for Coptic Orthodox Christians.

Wadi El-Natrun was considered Egypt's first line of defense. It is noted that during the reign of King Narmer, the unifier of the two lands and the first king of the first dynasty, an invasion by the Libyan people into the Delta was repelled, capturing 100,000 prisoners and many of their subjects. This event is inscribed on the walls of the Sahure Temple, depicting a successful campaign against the Libyans who threatened the western Delta and other scenes showing repeated invasions by Libyan nomads. A fortress, which still exists, was established to counter these threats.

Recently, Wadi El-Natrun has expanded significantly. Prime Ministerial Decree No. 351 of 1963 officially established Wadi El-Natrun City as a local unit affiliated with Matrouh Governorate, later transferred to Beheira Governorate in 1966 by Presidential Decree No. 2068 from former president Gamal Abdel Nasser. It is bordered to the west by Marsa Matrouh, to the south by Giza Governorate, to the east by Sadat City and the Liberation Directorate. The center includes about 3 rural local units, 5 villages, and 37 hamlets.

Landmarks and Antiquities

Beheira Governorate is home to a collection of archaeological sites, including 200 archaeological mounds. In Rashid, there is the Citadel of Qaitbay, built in 901 AH during the reign of Qaitbay. It is square in shape, featuring round towers and surrounded by moats.

War Museum

The War Museum is dedicated to the Battle of Rashid, which took place on March 31, 1807, where the people of Rashid defeated the occupying forces.

Rashid Stone

The Rashid Stone includes 14 lines of hieroglyphic writing, 32 lines of Demotic script, and 45 lines of Greek (ancient Greek). The stone is made of very hard black basalt and was discovered in July 1799 by a French artillery officer a few miles from Rashid. This stone led to the deciphering of the ancient Egyptian language known as hieroglyphics, with its secrets uncovered by the French scholar Champollion after 23 years of study. The stone is housed in the British Museum under the terms of the 1801 treaty, with a replica in the Egyptian Museum.

Damanhur Opera House

The historic Damanhur Opera House was built during the reign of King Fuad I in 1930, modeled after the Cairo Opera House, which burned down in the 1970s. Damanhur's opera and theater are architectural masterpieces that embody the characteristics of early 20th-century Egyptian architecture, following the Italian opera style introduced during the reign of Khedive Ismail.

Church of Saint Mark the Apostle

This church houses ancient icons, including an icon of the Archangel Michael, which was moved from the Church of Saint Mark in Alexandria when Napoleon demolished it in 1800 AD.

Church of the Archangel Michael

Located in Damanhur, this church houses a collection of Coptic and Arabic manuscripts.

The King’s Two Palaces

One palace was built during the reign of Khedive Ismail in the Italian style, and the other during the reign of King Fuad. It is surrounded by a garden with a variety of trees and ornamental plants imported from outside Egypt.

Edfeena Qanatir Gardens

These gardens consist of five parks and a nursery for producing plants and flowers. Their creation began in November 1948 as a navigational lock on the left bank and was inaugurated by Prime Minister Mustafa El-Nahhas Pasha in 1951. This project helped save more than a billion cubic meters of water that would have otherwise flowed into the sea, aiming to prevent water leakage into the sea during low levels after each flood. Edfeena Qanatir is the main link between Kafr El-Sheikh, Beheira, and Alexandria, located at the end of Edfeena village in Rashid Center, Beheira Governorate.

King Farouk’s Palace in Edfeena

Initially a private rest house for Khedive Ismail, it was transformed by his grandson King Fuad I into a royal palace in the Italian style. King Fuad gathered large quantities of pharaonic concrete blocks for its construction, with its floors designed in Italian parquet and its gardens adorned with rare trees gifted to King Fuad I and his son King Farouk.

Beheira Governorate includes several historical mosques, such as Sheikh Taqubni Mosque, Al-Samit Mosque built by Imam Muhammad Abdul Rahman containing his tomb, Demakcis Hanging Mosque built by Saleh Agha Demakcis in 1714 AD, Sidi Ali Al-Mahalli Mosque built in 1722 AD, Al-Mushid Bin Noor Mosque built in 1764 AD, Al-Jundi Mosque built by Prince Muhammad Al-Jundi in 1771 AD, Al-Arabi Mosque built in 1804, Al-Abbasi Mosque built by Muhammad Bek Tabuzada in 1809 AD, Abu Mandour Mosque, and Zaghoul Mosque, all located in Rashid. In Damanhur, there are Al-Habashi Mosque, Al-Hassafi Mosque, and Al-Tawba Mosque.

Rashid also features a collection of historical houses, including Hassan Arab House dating back to the mid-12th century AH, Ibrahim Baltis Asfour House built in 1754 AD, and Al-Misili Osman Agha Tobji Pasha House built in 1808 AD.

English Language Coordinator: Asmaa Ahmed