Al-Hakim Mosque
Translated by: Mostafa Mahmoud Mohmed Ahmed
Reviewed by: Nouran Salah
Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah Mosque: A Magical Architectural Masterpiece in the Heart of Cairo.
"Something enchanting and mysterious envelops the heart when one enters the courtyard of the Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah Fatimid Mosque in the heart of Cairo," which was built over a thousand years ago.
In 989 AD, Al-Aziz Billah, the fifth Fatimid caliph, saw that the Al-Azhar Mosque could no longer accommodate more worshippers and students. Therefore, he began to think about building a new mosque, but the construction halted with his death before it was completed by his son, Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah, the sixth Fatimid caliph. It was inaugurated in 1012 AD and named after Al-Hakim.
Al-Maqrizi describes Al-Hakim Mosque in his plans, saying: "This mosque is outside Bab Al-Futuh, one of Cairo's gates. The first to establish it was Al-Aziz Billah Nizar ibn Al-Mu'izz li-Din Allah, and he gave the sermon and led people in Friday prayers. Then his son, Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah, completed it. When Badr al-Jamali, the Amir of Armies, expanded Cairo and made its gates where they are today, Al-Hakim Mosque became inside Cairo. Initially, it was known as the Mosque of the Sermon and today is known as Al-Hakim Mosque, also called the Anwar Mosque.
In the year 1013 AD, Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah issued a decree converting the mosque into a "Jami’" where jurisprudence would be taught, to help Al-Azhar Mosque accommodate the students and worshippers.
Al-Hakim Mosque is considered the second largest mosque in Cairo in terms of area, after the Ahmad Ibn Tulun Mosque, and the fourth oldest remaining congregational mosque in Egypt, following the Amr ibn al-As Mosque in Fustat, the Ahmad Ibn Tulun Mosque in al-Qata'i, and the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo. The total area of the Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah Mosque is approximately 14,000 square meters, with a length of about 120.5 meters and a width of about 113 meters.
The mosque's waterfront facade is adorned with two octagonal minarets, each sitting on a pyramidal base, with another cubic base below it extending slightly beyond the wall. The minarets rise to the height of the mosque's wall, and between them is the mosque's main gate, which also extends slightly beyond the wall, matching the extension of the cubic bases of the minarets. The gate is topped by a cylindrical vault measuring 3.48 meters in width and 5.5 meters in length, ending with a door 2.21 meters wide, framed by a recently built horizontal stone arch. At the entrance, on both the right and left, are remnants of beautiful inscriptions about 1.6 meters high, leading to the mosque's courtyard surrounded by iwans.
In the southeast corner lies the qibla iwan of prayer, consisting of five aisles, each with 17 vaults. The northeast iwan, however, has only two aisles, also with 17 vaults each. As for the northeast and southwest iwans, each contains three aisles, with each aisle adorned with a series of vaults. A series of buttresses or columns support these vaults.
In ancient times, all the vaults were covered with a flat wooden ceiling. A gypsum baseboard adorned with Kufic script surrounded the ceiling from below, between it and the vaults. All buttresses and columns were made of dark brick, bound together with ties covered by ornately carved wooden panels. Above the columns, flat wooden planks, usually in two or three pieces, were placed. At the end of the qibla wall, there were two domes supported on an octagonal base, with a third dome located above the mihrab. The eastern dome was demolished due to the construction of Cairo's wall, built by the Mamluk Badr al-Jamali, which abuts the mosque's eastern wall. All windows in this wall were also sealed for the same reason. Originally, the mosque had nine doors, including two on the right side, which were later closed off by Badr al-Jamali's wall. Another door was reserved solely for the mosque's preacher.
As for the windows of the mosque, it has 16 windows in each of the side walls, and 17 windows in each of the qibla iwan and its opposite wall. Each minaret also had a window. The rear wall of the qibla iwan had two windows to the left of the mihrab, adorned with intertwining vegetal motifs. However, all of this has changed due to the intervention of Badr al-Din al-Jamali's wall.
The mosque represents a prominent example of the historical and religious transformations that Egypt has undergone. It remained a platform for spreading and teaching the Shia doctrine alongside Al-Azhar, located hundreds of meters away from this mosque. The Fatimids adhered to this doctrine, and according to the encyclopedia 'Al-Masalik,' this mosque combines African and Egyptian elements in its design. Without a doubt, its layout resembles that of Ibn Tulun Mosque, which was built in the Samarran style. The main entrance of the mosque is located in the middle of the rear wall opposite the mihrab, similar to the entrance of Al-Mahdiyah Mosque. The main entrance protrudes from the side of the rear wall, taking the form of two towers with a passage between them leading to a gate; thus, resembling a fortified gateway in wall architecture terms. Previously, the main entrances were usually open in the two side walls, excluding the qibla and rear walls.
During the time of Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi (532-589 AH / 1138-1193 CE), his minister Bahaa al-Din Karakush prohibited the spread of the Shia doctrine. The mosque was subsequently closed and neglected, similar to Al-Azhar, which was closed by the Ayyubids for approximately a century. Glassmakers and weavers occupied Al-Hakim Mosque, establishing their workshops inside and around it, where they remained until recently.
Initially, the mosque was located outside the walls of Cairo at its inception. During the reign of Caliph al-Mustansir, the northern wall of Cairo was renovated to expand the city's area, and the mosque was brought within the walls.
In 702 AH (1302 CE), the mosque experienced a severe earthquake that caused some walls to crack. They were repaired by Prince Rukn al-Din Baybars al-Jashankir. Later, the mosque was renovated during the reign of al-Nasir Hasan ibn Muhammad ibn Qalawun. Many vaults, columns, and the roof collapsed during the earthquake, as well as the tops of both minarets. All the mosque's iwans except for some arches in the northern and eastern ones. Consequently, the Egyptian Ministry of Awqaf used it for a period, storing Islamic artifacts and treasures before they were moved to the current Museum of Islamic Art. Today, it is occupied by the "Al-Salhadar" elementary school. The Department of Arab Antiquities restored the columns of the western half of the northern iwan and its arches.
During the French invasion of Egypt (1798-1801 CE), the mosque served as headquarters for the French campaign leadership, and its minarets were used for surveillance.
In 1222 AH (1807 CE), it was renovated again by the supervisor of the nobles, Omar Makram, witnessing continuous renovations and repairs in different eras. The most recent restoration allowed the mosque to finally reopen, hosting prayers including Tarawih during Ramadan after years of closure.
The mosque remained neglected for long periods until the era of President Anwar Sadat when it became a warehouse for local merchants. One Shia community, specifically the sect, sought to renovate it themselves due to its sacred significance to them. President Sadat subsequently called for its reopening, leading the community to develop their businesses adjacent to the mosque, which remains open for all sects to pray inside.
The mosque is bordered on the north by the northern wall of Cairo and Bab al-Futuh, and on the south by modern residential buildings. To the east lies the Qaytbay Agency, while to the west it overlooks al-Mu'izz Street.
In his plans for urban reform, Ali Mubarak states, 'Adjacent to al-Hakim Mosque on the western side is a mausoleum built by al-Hakim for himself, but it was not used for his burial. It later became known as Al-Sa’i Cemetery, a spacious structure topped by a dome and a lofty minaret. Inside are tombstones bearing the names of the dead buried there.
English Language Coordinator: Asmaa Ahmed
